Before I get to the pattern, there are somethings you should know. This sock knits up a bit tight pulling it over the heel, so I really suggest blocking it. I've also written that you need 2 skeins of Lorna's Laces. I have, as of this writing, only knit one sock, and there is a lot left. You may need only one skein, but I do suggest buying 2... and keeping the receipt. ^^; If you find any errata, please let me know immediately. I have not had any test knitters beta this pattern. Luckily, I'm an airhead, so I had to rely on my own pattern quite a bit. XD
Edit: Pictures have been fixed. YAAAYY!!
Edit 2: Many thanks to Kismatt for making my pattern into a PDF file for download!
Edit 3: On 11/08/07, I found one errata. I can't correct the PDF file, so I've noted the correction here in green. It's after you turn the heel. Sorry for any inconvenience this may have cause you.
Edit 4: The PDF file is no longer available for download. I decided not to renew with my webhost, so there's now nowhere to post it. If I can figure out how to upload it to Ravelry, I will. =)
Edit 5: You can now download the PDF for free on Ravelry!
Firenze the Centaur Socks
I've been a huge fan of Harry Potter for a few years now. And when I had to choose who to base a pattern around, I knew it had to be Firenze the Centaur. I have always loved astronomy even when I was a child, so I did my best to incorporate the stars that Firenze (and all centaurs in the HP-verse) adore. I also incorporated an arrow pattern for the cross-bows that they carry.
This simple pattern is easy to memorize, but just interesting enough that you won't get bored. I chose the Lakeview colorway because it looked like a forest at dusk just as the stars start to come out.
Materials: 2 skeins of Lorna's Laces (80% superwash wool, 20% nylon; 215 yd [196m] per 50g skein) in color Lakeview
US Size 3 needles (either DPN or circular needles)
32 sts and 44 rows = 4" [10cm] in stockinette
CO 58 sts and work 10 rounds of 1x1 ribbing.
Rnd 1: *p2 sl 5 sts purlwise keeping yarn in front of work p2 k20; repeat from *
Rnd 2: *p2 k5 p2 k2 yo ssk k8 yo ssk k6; repeat from *
Rnd 3: *p2 k5 p2 k20; repeat from *
Rnd 4: *p2 k2 lift yarn from Rnd 1 onto left hand needle behind next st on needle and k into next st, drop the yarn that was lifted so that it lies trapped behind st just k, k2 p2 k2tog yo k yo ssk k5 k2tog yo k yo ssk k5; repeat from *
Rnd 5: *p2 sl 5 sts purlwise keeping yarn in front of work p2 k20; *repeat from *
Rnd 6: *p2 k5 p2 k2 yo ssk k8 yo ssk k6; repeat from *
Rnd 7: *p2 k5 p2 k7 yo ssk k8 yo ssk k; repeat from *
Rnd 8: *p2 k2 lift yarn from Rnd 5 onto left hand needle behind next st on needle and k into next st, drop the yarn that was lifted so that it lies trapped behind st just k, k2 p2 k20; repeat from *
Rnd 9: *p2 sl 5 sts purlwise keeping yarn in front of work p2 k5 k2tog yo k yo ssk k5 k2tog yo k yo ssk; repeat from *
Rnd 10: *p2 k5 p2 k20; repeat from *
Rnd 11: *p2 k5 p2 k7 yo ssk k8 yo ssk k; repeat from *
Rnd 12: *p2 k2 lift yarn from Rnd 9 onto left hand needle behind next st on needle and k into next st, drop the yarn that was lifted so that it lies trapped behind st just k, k2 p2 k20; repeat from *
Repeat rounds 1-12 six times or until desired length. End with Rnd1.
You'll want to re-arrange the stitches so that half of the arrow row on each side will be part of your heel (30 sts on heel flap side, 28 on non-working side). You won't work the pattern on these stitches, but you will work the heel shaping on them. It may be easier to put your knitting on waste yarn to re-arrange them. The arrows are easier to make while they're all on one needle, but if you continue knitting without re-arranging, the arrows will be off center.
Once you've re-arranged your stitches (30 sts), begin knitting the heel flap.
WS: sl first st purlwise and p to end. Turn.
RS: sl first st purlwise and k to end. Turn
Work these 2 rows for 27 rows. You'll end at the beginning of a RS row.
Row 1: (RS) sl1 k15 ssk k1
Row 2: (WS) sl1 p3 p2tog p1 [27sts]
Row 3: (RS) sl1 k4 ssk k1
Row 4: (WS) sl1 p5 p2tog p1 [25sts]
Row 5: (RS) sl1 k6 ssk k1
Row 6: (WS) sl1 p7 p2tog p1 [23sts]
Row 7: (RS) sl1 k8 ssk k1
Row 8: (WS) sl1 p9 p2tog p1 [21 sts]
Row 9: (RS) sl1 k10 ssk k1
Row 10: (WS) sl1 p11 p2tog p1 [19 sts]
Row 11: (RS) sl1 k12 ssk k1
Row 12: (WS) sl1 p13 p2tog p1 [17 sts]
Row 13: (RS) sl1 k 14 ssk
Row 14: (WS) sl1 p 15 p2tog [15 sts]
Turn and work 15 sts.
Gusset and Foot
Rnd 1: Pick up 13 sts from the side of the heel flap and 1 extra from the corner near the instep stitches so no hole appears. Continue following the lace pattern above starting with Rnd 2. However, replace the first 2 p sts with k stitches. When you get to the 2nd arrow pattern, replace the last 2 p sts with k sts. Pick up 1 stitch from the corner near the instep, then 13 more along the side.
Rnd 2: k12, k2tog, k. Then work the lace pattern Rnd 3 across the top of the sock making the proper substitutions (replace last 2 p sts in the 2nd arrow pattern with 2 k sts). k ssk k to end of rnd.
Work the rest of the lace pattern for the top of the sock while decreasing (as in Rnd 2 of the Gusset) every other row. You will decrease a total of 14 times over 28 Rnds to end with 58 sts total.
Continue working the lace pattern on the top of the sock only (still replacing the first 2 p sts of the first arrow pattern with k sts as well as the last 2 p sts of the 2nd arrow pattern). Work until the foot measures 1 1/2 inches less than desired finished length.
Rnd 1: k all sts. Place a marker after the 5th k st (the exact middle of the arrow pattern) on each side.
Rnd 2: (k to 3 sts before marker k2tog k2 ssk) twice k to end of Rnd
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 until a total of 22 sts remain.
If you're knitting on DPNs, re-arrange sts so that the top sts are on one needle, and the bottom stitches are on another (2 needles)
Cut yarn leaving a 12" [30 cm] tail. Graft (Kitchener st) toe closed.
Weave in ends. Block if desired.
Special thanks to Skizzors and Hilaroma.